Chris von Wangenheim

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#1
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Chris von Wangenheim was one of the most groundbreaking fashion photographers of the 20th century. From 1968 until his death in a car accident in 1981, he ranked alongside Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin in his masterful encapsulation of the 1970s zeitgeist. Now, a forthcoming Rizzoli monograph about the pioneering image-maker gives us a welcome excuse to revisit his brilliant oeuvre.

Von Wangenheim was born in Breig, in what was then a war-torn East Prussia, in 1942. His father, an officer in the German Army, died in Soviet captivity in 1953 (most likely a suicide), a tragedy that would go on to inform his son's dark nature. By this time von Wangenheim was living in the Bavarian mountains with his mother and sister and, inspired by a kindly photographer living in the upstairs flat, had developed a burgeoning interest in photography.

Von Wangenheim carried this fascination with him into adulthood, particularly identifying with the work of American fashion photographers, and in 1965 he relocated to New York City to kickstart his own career. He cut his teeth as an assistant for Harper's Bazaar photographer James Moore, and as a result secured a few pages in the magazine. But it wasn't until von Wangenheim captured the attention of newly appointed special features editor at Vogue Italia, Anna Piaggi, in 1969 that the young photographer found his moment to shine.

The flamboyant Piaggi had a vibrant and provocative vision that perfectly aligned itself with von Wangenheim's aesthetic, and under her reign he began to develop his unique, yet definitively 70s style. The 60s and 70s saw a wave of violence seep its way into all areas of popular culture, from Andy Warhol's Death and Disaste period to films like Dirty Harry and Taxi Driver, and von Wangenheim simply thought, “the violence is in the culture so why shouldn’t it be in our pictures?” What ensued were hugely impactive images filled with gun-toting beauties, teeth-baring dobermans, blood, bare breasts and billowing smoke. Von Wangenheim's work was macabre, sexy, incendiary, chic and in very high demand, and before long he was shooting for everyone from Dior to US Vogue to Playboy.

 

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#2

Vogue Italia September 1970

"Bellezza: Come Sar? La Nuova Donna D'autunno"

Models: Donna Mitchell, Jan de Villeneuve & Unknown

Photographers: Chris von Wangenheim, Alfa Castaldi & Barry Lategan

Hair: Aldo Coppola & Leonard

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#3

Vogue Italia September 1970

"Un'alta Moda Fattaper Essere Vissura"

Models: Willy van Rooy & Donna Mitchell

Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Hair: Jean-Marc Maniatis

Makeup: Gil

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#4

Vogue Italia January 1971

"'71 Anno di Sorprese"

Models: Willy van Rooy, Wallis Franken, Beshka Sorensen, Mouche, Jane Hitchcock, Kerry-Ann Mueller & Unknowns

Photographers: Chris von Wangenheim, Alfa Castaldi, Jean-Jacques Bugat & Gianni Turlazzi

Hair: Aldo Coppola, Alba, Gerald & Laurence

Makeup: Gil

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#5

Vogue Paris December 1973/January 1974

"Marlène, Son Mythe, Sa Beauté"

Models: Regine Jaffry & Carole Singleton

Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

 

WARNING: Seminudity (9th page)

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#6

Vogue Italia January 1971

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Model: Donna Jordan

Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Hair: Jean-Marc Maniatis

Makeup: Corey Tippin

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#7
On 7/31/2020 at 6:49 PM, Vogue Girl said:

Vogue Italia January 1971

"'71 Anno di Sorprese"

Models: Willy van Rooy, Wallis Franken, Beshka Sorensen, Agneta "Mouche" Bylander, Jane Hitchcock, Kerry-Ann Mueller & Unknowns

Photographers: Chris von Wangenheim, Alfa Castaldi, Jean-Jacques Bugat & Gianni Turillazzi

Hair: Aldo Coppola, Alba, Gerald & Laurence

Makeup: Gil

 

Digital Version

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#8

Vogue Italia February 1971

"Il Punto di Vista di Vogue - Con I 'Bloomers' a Sbuffo la Moda Rittorna All'Infanzia" & "Sulle Alli della Fantasia"
Models: Naomi Sims?, Wallis Franken & Unknowns
Photogapher: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: Christophe & Jean-Louis David
Makeup: Serge Lutens

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#9

Vogue Italia February 1971

"Metti un Saint Laurent una Sera a Cena"
Models: Wallis Franken & Unknowns
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: Jean-Marc Maniatis
Makeup: Gil

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#10

Vogue Italia February 1971

"Che Cosa C 'E' Sotto Gil Shorts?"
Models: Donna Jordan & Jane Forth
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: Claude
Makeup: Corey Tippin

 

WARNING: Topless (1st, 2nd, 3rd & 5th photos)

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#11

US Vogue May 1974

Model/Subject: Cher

Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Hair & Makeup: François 

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#12

US Vogue October 1976

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Model/Subject: Jacqueline Bisset

Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Hair: Maurice Azoulay

Makeup: Ariella

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#13

US Vogue December 1976

"Test Your Cool!"

Models: Eva Wallen & Lisa Taylor
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: Marc Pipino

Makeup: Sandy Linter

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#14

US Vogue April 1981
"Summer & Sun: The Element of Bareness"

Model: Patti Hansen
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: Maury Hopson 

Makeup: Sophie Levy

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#15

US Vogue January 1981

"New Signals... from Paris"

Model: Patti Hansen
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: Maury Hopson
Makeup: Alberto Fava

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#16

US Vogue November 1974

"The Insiders"

Models: Lisa Taylor, Regine Rafferty & Kim Im
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Fashion Editor: Frances Stein
Hair: Maury Hopson
Makeup: John Richardson

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#17

US Vogue November 1974

"The Insiders: Dazzle at Night"

Models: Lisa Taylor, Regine Rafferty & Kim Im
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Fashion Editor: Frances Stein
Hair: Maury Hopson
Makeup: Sandy Linter

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#18

US Vogue April 1974

"The Discreet Charm of... Red and Cream from California for Anywhere"

Models: Regine Jaffrey & Unknown

Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim
Hair: François

Makeup: Salvatore

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#19

US Vogue March 1974

"All-Out Charm At Home"

Model/Subject: Andrea Portago
Photographer: Chris von Wangenheim

Hair: Alexander

Makeup: Gloria Natale

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#20

US Vogue February 1977

"The Best of The New York Collections: The Mood Has Changed"

Models: Patti Hansen, Christie Brinkley, Rosie Vela & Janice Dickinson
Photographers: Irving Penn & Chris von Wangenheim

Hair: Marc Pipino, Harry King & Suga

Makeup: Way Bandy & Ariella

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